• Where the Accessible World Runs Out

    Two days by train to Hudson Bay, where the trees give out and the map stops pretending. What Churchill teaches you has very little to do with bears.

  • The Last Train of the Season

    The railway through the mountains to Banff runs only half the year. The first departure of 2026 left Vancouver on the 13th of April; the last will leave on the 11th of October. Then the glass-domed coaches go quiet until spring. Six months of operation, bracketed by snow. This gives the Rocky Mountaineer something most…

  • The Sunrise Everyone Tells You About

    Every person on the train said the same thing: set an alarm, go up to the dome. Four days across the country in January, and what stays with you is the pace.

  • The Canada You Imagined as a Child

    Snow globes, lit windows, dusk at four in the afternoon. The version of Canada you assembled before you ever went there turns out to have been real, and simply waiting for winter.